You visited a few times and I would appreciate your thoughts on this post, why not comment?

Crochet Lace Long Stockings

These are my Crochet Lace Baby Longstockings. They combine baby leg warmers with baby socks because you just can’t keep normal socks on babies feet! By combining them with pretty lace leg warmers that go up over the knee your little princess will stay snuggly warm with her socks in place.

Sizes: Newborn, 0-3 months, 6-12 months
Materials: Patons Stretch Socks (50g) 1 ball or any sock weight(super fine) yarn.
3.75mm crochet hook (F/5)
Tapestry Needle

Size Note: Instructions are given for 0-3 month size. For newborn, use size 3mm hook, for larger size use sport weight yarn and size 4mm hook.

Cuff

Ch 15
ROW 1 – 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (14 sc)
ALL STITCHES in the remaining rows are through BACK LOOPS ONLY.
ROW 2 – 1 sc in each 14 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.)
Work until 32 rows have been complete.
(Joining row) Fold work in half so beginning row lines up with last row completed. Sl st to join through both first st of last row and first row and each remaining st till cuff is joined in a ring. Turn inside out.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the legwarmer portion of the sock, with wrong side facing you working around lower edge of cuff, ch 1, sc in end of first row, *ch 3, leave a space, sc, work 16 of these ch groups evenly around. Join with sl st to beginning sc.
Pattern:
Row 1:(right side) Sl st into 1st ch 3 space, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in same space, ch 1, skip one ch 3 space, *5 dc in next space, ch 1, skip one ch 3 space. Repeat from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch 3. Ch 1.
Row 2: Sc in joining, ch 3, *sc in last dc of 5dc group, ch 3, sc in first dc of next dc group, ch 3. repeat from * around. Join with sl st to first sc.
Repeat these two pattern rows until work measures 10 inches from beginning.

Foot:
Row 1: Work 36 sc evenly around. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: (eyelet row) Sc in first 2 sc, *ch 1, skip 1, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat from * around. Join. Ch 1, turn.
Row 3: Sc in each sc, join. Ch 1, turn.
HEEL

ROW 4 – 1 sc in first 18 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 5 to 12 – Same as Row 1.
ROW 13 – 1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
ROW 14 – 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 6 sc, ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
ROW 11 – 1 sc in each sc, ch 1, turn. (14 sc)
ROW 12 – 1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, sl st the next sc to the 5th sc on this Row, sl st the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, and so on till all 5 sts have been joined together, ch 1, turn heel to the right side.

FOOT:

RND 1 – With wrong side facing, work 10 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, work 10 sc evenly along edge of heel rows, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (38 sc)
RND 2 – 1 sc in next 7 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 7 sc, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
RND 3 – 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 6 sc, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
RND 4 – 1 sc in each sc, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
RNDS 5 to 11 – Same as Row 4. (30 sc)
Row 12 – Sc in first 6 sc, sc2tg, sc in next 14 sc, sc2tg, sc in last 6 sc. Join. Ch 1.(28 sc)
ROW 13 – *1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to *, 3 more times, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
ROW 14 – *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to *, 3 more times, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
ROW 15 – 1 sc in each sc, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (20 sc)
ROW 16 – *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to *, 3 more times, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (16 sc)
ROW 17 – *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to *, 3 more times, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROW 18 – *1 sc in next 1 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to *, 3 more times, sl st to join, ch 1, turn. (8 sc)
ROW 19 – 2 sc tog 4 times.

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew with. Turn sock inside out. With tapestry needle, draw yarn through the toe stitches and draw tight to close hole. Secure the end and weave in tail.

©2009 Cathy Henry. All rights reserved. You may not copy this pattern or include it on any website or collection. You may not distribute the pattern in any format free or for sale. If you wish to share the pattern on your blog or website you must put a link to the original pattern here rather than copying the pattern.

Please feel free to leave me a comment (all comments entered into the monthly draw to win these Baby Longstockings)

You visited a few times and I would appreciate your thoughts on this post, why not comment?

Rainbow Baby Leg Warmer Socks

Baby Longstockings are something I invented to combine both leg warmers and socks in one. Have you ever had trouble keeping socks on a baby? Those little legs kick and squirm until socks fly off. Leg warmers don’t always stay in place on babies. So my solution was to combine the two. Now socks stay on and legwarmers stay where they belong and baby stays cozy and warm.
These Baby Longstockings are bright and cheerful. Since babies are often fascinated with their feet, why not give them something interesting to look at? If you are tired of the generic pastel colors then these socks are your answer.

To Fit Size:
0-3 m (6-12 m, 18-24 m).
Materials: Patons Canadiana (Rainbow Variegated) : 1 ball

Gauge: 18 sts = 4” on a 5mm needle over st st.
Needles: Double pointed needles: size 4mm(US 6) & 5mm(US 8), or size necessary to obtain given gauge.

Note: When slipping stitches, always slip as if to purl, except for the SKP.

CUFF:
(smaller needles)With one needle, cast on 24 (28, 32) sts. Divide onto 3 needles. Being careful not to twist the sts, join and work in the round as follows: (k1, p1) around for 3 (3½, 4)”.

Legs: Switch to larger needles. Knit 5″ (6, 8) . (Work should measure 8″,9 1/2″, 12″ from beginning)

Switch back to smaller needles.

DIVIDE FOR HEEL:
Transfer sts around so that there are 12 (14, 16) sts on the first needle, and 6 (7, 8) sts on each of the other two needles. Work back and forth across the first needle ONLY as follows to work the Eye of Partridge Heel:
Row 1: *(Slip 1, k1), repeat from * across.
Row 2: Slip 1, purl across rest of row.
Row 3: Slip 1 *(slip 1, k1); repeat from * across to last st, end k1.
Row 4: Slip 1, purl across rest of row.
Repeat rows 1-4 for 12 (12, 16) rows total, then work row 1( 1-3, 1) once more. The heel will be 13 (15, 17) rows long.

TURN HEEL:
Row 1: Purl 8 (9, 10) sts, p2tog, p1, TURN.
Row 2: Slip 1, k5, k2tog, k1, TURN.
Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 st before the last turn (you’ll see a small gap where the last turn was), p2tog, p1, (no p1 for first & third sizes on last time across), TURN.
Row 4: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before the last turn (look for the gap), k2tog, k1 (no k1for first and third sizes on last time across), TURN.
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all sts at the ends are used up, ending with a knit row. There will be 8 (10, 10) sts left.

GUSSET:
Continuing to work on the same needle, pick up and knit 8 (9, 10) sts along the side of the heel (needle 1). Using a new needle, knit across the sts on the next 2 needles (needle 2). Using a new needle, pick up and knit 8 (9, 10) sts along the other side of the heel, and continue knitting to the center of the heel sts [4 (5, 5) sts] (needle 3).

There should now be 12 (14, 15) sts on needles 1 & 3, and 12 (14, 16) sts on needle 2. The center of the heel is the beginning of the round; needle 2 contains the instep sts. Begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: Knit to within 3 sts of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Work across second needle in st st. On third needle, k1, SKP, knit to end. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 6 (7, 8) sts left on both needles 1 & 3. Needle 2 will remain at 12 (14, 16) sts since no decreases take place there. You will now be back to the original # of sts [24 (28, 32)]. Begin to work even again, until length from back of heel is 3 (3½, 4)”, OR 1 ” less than desired length of finished sock. At this point you can slip the sock on to see the length. Only the toenails should stick out.

TOE SHAPING: Rearrange the sts on the needles, if necessary, so that there are now 6 (7, 8) sts on each of needles 1 & 3, and 12 (14, 16) sts on needle 2. The beginning of the round is still at the center back of heel. Begin decreasing as follows:
Round 1: On needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 2: K1, SKP, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 3: K1, SKP, knit to end (center of heel).
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 12 (16, 16) sts left [3 (4, 4) sts on needles 1 & 3, and 6 (8, 8) sts on needle 2].

KITCHNER STITCH: Continuing to knit with needle 3, knit to the end of needle 1. There are now only 2 needles in use: 6 (8, 8) sts on each. Cut the yarn, leaving 18”. Thread it onto a blunt needle. Hold the 2 needles parallel, you will now have a front needle and a back needle. Always keep the yarn beneath the needle as you work.
Step 1: Go into the first st on the front needle as if to knit, pull the st off the needle.
Step 2: Go into the second st on the front needle as if to purl, leave st on the needle.
Step 3: Go into the first st on the back needle as if to purl, pull the st off of the needle.
Step 4: Go into the second st on the back needle as if to knit, leave the st on the needle.
Now you have 4 new sts to work with. Repeat steps 1 – 4 until all sts are woven. Anchor on inside, weave in ends.

Make a second sock; counting rows to make sure it is the same length.

If you like this pattern please leave a comment. (every comment is submitted to the monthly draw to win these socks) Subscribe to my newsletter to receive great original patterns like this every week in your email.